British Bouldering Championships (BBC) 2002 - Report

Richard and I woke early on Saturday, to a cold, crisp morning. As we started to move around the house Richard's excitement was evident as was mine. A new wall, a new playground and for Richard a new competition. Although competition climbing was a game Richard had played many times before, this was different, a step up to national level and although Richard had tasted this in the BICC’s this was bouldering; Richard's forte and he was in it to win. This attitude shone through in Richard's’s unusual confidence though as opposed to previous days a tinge of anxiety could be detected, which was hardly surprising.

We left for the Leeds wall at about 7:30 and after a few detours we arrived at the wall. As we entered the wall although cold the wall was buzzing with activity with the competitors hunting out routes and the route setters adding finishing touches (at this point Ian Vickers gets very stressed and has to go for a walk). After a brief wait the competition started, Richard's first route, a fairly overhanging route that consisted of several nasty crimps all put up the wrong way round. Richard stepped onto the mat with confidence and climbed the route with relative ease. This was the case for several routes but not for them all, Richard's first set back was on problem 8 it required delicate moves on a pillar to a crimpy side pull which you had to lean out on to reach the top, Richard breezed up the start but subsequently his fabled bad footwork failed him and he fell off the crimp, this came as a blow as he had seen several climbers complete the route before him. It didn’t get him down and he returned later to rectify the situation (without the use of his feet to get him in a muddle). Richard became increasingly nervous as the standard of climbing was high and it looked more and more likely that he wouldn’t get to attempt all of the routees. As the round ended the silly mistakes were playing on Richard's mind, the results went up and Richard had made the cut, despite not even trying 3 of the routes and only having his first attempt on several, he was in 6th.

As I waited for the first competitor to come out I was nervous. Then the first name was announced, Richard Sharpe, as rich stepped out onto the mat there was a cheer, and rich stood looking as the rules for the route were explained. He climbed very deliberately and his strength could easily be seen. He seemed to be having trouble near the top, his face cringed with pain, and at first I presumed it was his finger, which he had previously injured. He descended and it became clear that he had severe cramp in his right forearm. He only had a few minuets before he had to move on, when he moved it looked like it had cleared but as he climbed it was evident that it was still affecting him and this was the story as he moved on and on. At this point it was looking doubtful that Richard could win, as the standard of climbing following was increasingly high. As Richard came to the last problem, a technical and pumpy problem on a severe overhang he was determined to climb it, although he did not finish the problem he got the furthest out of all of the competitors on it.

We had permission to leave early and Richard showed how many people he knew as he said goodbye to lots of famous climbers who he met in other comps and in France. Richard's’s overall position was 6th a good place. As we drove home Richard's desire to improve at the next round seemed highly possible.

 

Mark Watkins
Pictures and Overall Results