BICC
British Indoor Climbing Championships 2004/2005

Report - Round 4 - The Leeds Wall - 11 December

Friday 10th December
We arrived at school at 11am and squeezed into the car. I sat next to Tom because he had his i-pod. On the way we picked up Matt. It suddenly felt very claustrophobic, which is weird because Matt can hardly be described as massive. After a while we were really bored. Nathan came to the rescue with his phone. It had a really cool bowling game on it. We took it in turns to try to get the highest score. Nathan won with 147, although it was a bit unfair since it was his phone. This made the journey seem much quicker and in no time we had arrived at the services in Cambridge. We had some lunch and then decided to go to the shop. Since I promised the team I would tie my hair back, I looked for some hair-bands. Obviously they had to be pink because I have to stay in touch with my feminine side. I found 12 hair-bands for £0.99 and I also let Matt and Nathan help me choose what to put in my pick 'n mix bag. This proved a very costly mistake and the total price of the hair-bands and sweets was about £2.50. I had just paid £1.50 for about 2 sweets. Just before we left the shop, we decided to look at the magazines. Tony found his favourite- "The Gay Times." Tom has a rather amusing picture of Tony reading it. As a last desperate attempt to spend money, we went in the arcade/games place and tried to win a Fimble (because Matt wanted one) on the grab machines. We lost and went back to the car crying.
A couple of painful hours later, we arrived at the youth hostel. It was a very nice youth hostel, especially when compared to the flea ridden Malham youth hostel (see big trip diary day 4). We bagsied our beds and attempted to settle in. However we were disturbed by Mr. A with some very worrying news- we were going shopping at…TESCO! Obviously our mental stability was in danger of collapsing at this prospect. In the end, though it wasn't that bad. Me and Matt got some fantastic bargains. We both bought some pink, not gay, totally cool, fluffy slippers. They were really practical because we can wipe our climbing shoes on them and then put our climbing shoes inside them to stop them getting dirty. I also got 2 cans of deodorant for £1. Unfortunately one smelt like furniture polish and the other smelt like soap. We were tempted to buy a latex swimming cap and a white golfing glove as well. But we didn't.
We took our shopping back and then went into the games room to play some team pool. It was going to be me and Matt vs. Tony and Tom. However, Mr. A had a special mission for Tony and Tom. They had to go to the shop to buy something or other and I've forgotten what. Me and Matt decided to play a little one-on-one. I whooped Matt's ass!
For dinner we had the most delicious meal on Earth- Kedgeree, YAY! It was the best one ever and Tony offered to clean the pan afterwards so that was an added bonus. I had to wash up, Tom dried and Matt put away. Nathan didn't do anything because he helped prepare dinner. We decided to time ourselves and we managed to complete the job in less than 10 minutes, which, by our standards, is really quick. When we finished Nathan challenged me to a game of pool. This time it was me whose ass was whooped! Nathan was lucky.
We went back to our room and played poker for a while. At 9:30 we went to Mr. A and Mrs Tony's mum's room to watch Little Britain. It was most enjoyable and we decided to retreat to bed once it had finished.
Getting to sleep today proved very difficult because we took Nathan's flickering light comment to new extremes. We realised we had individual lights by our beds. We thought it was funny to turn our lights on when all the other ones were off. Eventually this got annoying so Matt decided to make sexy noises. This also got annoying and Matt decided to stop because Tony threatened to punch him. Eventually we were all asleep.

Saturday 11th December
In order to be at The Leeds Wall in time for registration we had to be up by 7:00, urrgghh! We had a really horrible cooked breakfast which comprised of soggy cornflakes (which were actually un-cooked) cold beans, uncooked hash browns, barely cooked bacon and a fried egg.
After our delicious breakfast we set off in the vague direction of Leeds. It didn't take long and was nowhere near as uncomfortable as the journey from Thanet. Our first impressions were that it wasn't as exciting as it used to be because it was no longer bright yellow on the outside- very disappointed. On the way up Matt had been talking about where he would be climbing. As usual he expected to be climbing first, if not second. His assumptions were correct and he was indeed second to climb. We walked into the main leading area, having registered, and, to our surprise, did not wet ourselves. The wall was nowhere near as scary as everyone had said it was, it was just sooo steep!
The first route looked pretty straight forward. It was a relatively easy climb with an interesting top section that actually looked harder for tall people, much to mine and Matt's satisfaction. After someone had done the route (can't remember who) Matt stepped up in his slippers. In no time at all he was at the top, having done a cool dyno to get there. He was very pleased because that was the first ever climb that he had topped in the BICCs. He told us that the climb wasn't too bad and soon Nathan, Tony and me had all topped it as well. Tom also did well on his first route. He had a really tough route up the middle of the main wall. After a strong effort he fell off a couple of moves from the top.
We decided to do a bit of bouldering to pass time while we waited for the demos of the second qualifiers to start. During this time we found out that a total of 13 people had topped the first qualifier. The pressure was now on to do well on route 2. For us, this turned out to be the senior male route 1 with a few tweaks. Tom had a nasty climb on the left side of the wall. It had about a billion volumes in it and it looked impossible.
This time it was Tony who had to climb second. He did very well and fell off a couple of moves below Tomo's high point. I also got to the same place and Nathan fell off just one move lower down, hitting his belayer on the head as he fell. Matt found it a bit harder and he fell off on a tricky section a bit lower down.
Meanwhile, over on the men's route, Tom was also finding things a bit difficult. He fell off quite low down but he gave it all he could. I think we were all impressed with Tom's efforts in the BICCs this year, he did really well.
Me and Tony were both quite confident of getting into the final and we weren't disappointed. What we didn't expect though, was to be joined by No Fear Nathan himself. In round 1 there was 1 member of the Margate Massive in the final, in round 2 there were 2 and now there were 3. A third of all the finalists were Dane Court pupils.
Isolation was particularly boring today because we had to wait 1 and a half hours for the routes to be changed. The highlight of the time we spent in isolation was when Percy Bishton gave Gaz Parry an atomic wedgie, ripping his underwear in the process (and the senior men are supposed to be the mature ones).
A short while later we were finally allowed to go out for observation. We had a really rubbish looking climb which was tucked away to one side. The girls had a really long and impressive looking route, as did the senior men and women. Obviously the junior males are so good they don't need an impressive route to look good.
Eventually the girls were called out and soon it was the turn of the boys. First out from the Margate Massive was Nathan. I forgot to listen for how well he did so I didn't know. Next up was Tony. Judging by the claps, I decided he had got the furthest so far. I was fifth out. The walk to the climb seemed to take ages and all I heard on the way was Matt shouting "pink slippers, £2 from Tesco." A few hours later I reached the climb and had one last look at the rote. I stepped of the ground and all went well until the bit with the big triangular volume things. A move which had looked easy during observation was actually quite hard and I hit my head on something whilst doing it. This didn't put me off and I was so focused that I climbed right past a hold I was supposed to clip from. I knew I couldn't clip the quick draw so I had to fall off. Stupidly I didn't jump to slap the next hold. When I reached the ground I found out that Nathan had done exactly what I had done but he had slapped the next hold. Nathan had beaten me.
I went and joined Matt and Nathan and settled down to watch the rest of the final. I nearly had a heart attack, however, when Rob Mackenzie fell off really low down. Ironically I told him in isolation that I was going to beat him. This was a massive disappointment because he really deserved to win; he's such a nice guy. As it happened, Tyler won. In the senior males a very similar thing happened. Steve McClure fell off low down and first place was taken by so called boulderer, Gaz Parry, minus his underwear. Unsurprisingly, Lucy Creamer won the senior females. In the junior female category, victory was taken by Hazel Findlay, while series winner, Nat Berry, only managed to finish fourth.
We finished our stay at The Leeds Wall by constantly taking pictures of Beth, much to her annoyance. Matt said goodbye to his new found love and we departed from the venue. On the way back we stopped off at a really nice restaurant called "Fox and Grapes" (I think). I thought this was a really strange name. I've heard of Fox and Hounds and the two names go together well. However, I have never heard of a fox being chased by grapes. Nevertheless, it was a really good restaurant. I had a gammon steak. It tasted totally different to any gammon I have ever had before, it was better. Everybody else said they thoroughly enjoyed their meals too.
When we got back to the hostel we had a quick game of poker and then went to bed. It was, once again, quite difficult to get to sleep. We decided to emphasise on one of Kempy's bad habits again. This time it was the art of making loud noises with his derrière. We decided to imitate this habit. After a while it got a bit smelly (thanks Matt) so we decided to go to sleep.

Sunday 12th December
Today we had to wake up nice and early again (ohhh) because we were going bouldering at Almscliff. We went down to breakfast and I had decided I was going to have a croissant because the cooked breakfast wasn't very nice. The mean people who were serving said I couldn't because I wasn't having a continental breakfast! They gave Mrs Tony's mum a croissant though. In the end I only had a yoghurt and some cornflakes.
30 minutes later we were on our way to Armscliff. I sat in the back with Matt and he was constantly texting Beth. It was really boring for me. However, it didn't take long to get there. It was really cold, colder than the Westway or Ratho, but, despite this, we were soon setting up our stuff under our first climb, a V0. It was alright for a warm up but I'd hardly call it a classic. Just round the corner, however, was a classic, the fantastic Matterhorn Arête. Me and Matt bouldered the first few moves but then we got a bit high, resulting in us almost wetting ourselves. We decided to wait until we had a boulder matt. We went back round the corner and found the other guys trying a little V2. It looked quite good so we decided to join in. After everybody had done it, most flashing it, we moved on. We stopped at a scary looking roof and I can't remember what it is called, though it is a classic. There was a little V0 which we all decided to do. Matt and Nathan both flashed it and then it was my turn. I stuck my hand in a crack then tried to move it. It didn't come out and it bent the wrong way. Something clicked really loudly and I fell off. My finger hurt so much and a few hours later it was quite swollen, possibly broken. I subsequently finished the V0, as did Tomo and Tony. Whilst us not so good guys went on to a V4 traverse, Tom decided to do a well-ard V7 roof thingy. It involved lots of slaps on non-existent holds. He did eventually do it though, which is more than can be said about the rest of us. Although Tony flashed the V4 the rest of us didn't. I had an excuse, my finger. Matt and Nathan didn't have any excuses though.
Tony was really good today. After doing the V4, he then went on to do the V7 that Tom did and also a V6. Well done to him. I think Matt also did a V5 variation to crucifix as well. Nathan might have done it too. I can't remember because my broken finger (which turned out not to be broken) gave me temporary memory loss. Obviously I would have done V10 if I was capable of climbing!
After having a spot of luncheon, and doing a little more hardcore bouldering, we set off home. I was in the back with Matt again. This time he went to sleep. He is soooo boring. I was looking forward to some good company; all I got was the sound of him snoring.
The journey home was relatively uneventful. That is until we got to the Cambridge services. As our shoes were covered in mud and cow poo, me and Matt decided to wear our cool slippers. People kept looking at us as if we were gay. Once again we went to the shop. This time I decided not to let anyone help me buy sweets. I managed to pay less than £1 for them that way. We also went in the arcadey/game place again. We failed to win a Fimble this time too. Matt almost cried!
On the last bit of the journey, I finally beat Nathan on bowling. I scored 150 points. Yay! We arrived home some time in the evening with chronic leg cramps due to lack of space. It was well worth it though. Well done to everybody who entered the BICCs. It was a really enjoyable comp and it was probably Dane Court's best round yet…3 members of the Margate Massive in the final. I hope to see more males wearing pink slippers from now on. Peace out!

Callum Harris