Kent Mountain Centre - Maintenance Visit 2004
| Daily Diary | |
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Saturday 24 July 2004 |
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Sunday 25 July 2004 |
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Monday 26 July 2004 Everyone else’s day: |
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Tuesday 27 July 2004 |
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| Wednesday 28 July 2004 Today was predicted to be nice and dry but the weather and roof of the common-room had different ideas. What I mean by this is that the plaster in the common-room had gotten damp and fallen down on the seats, the first job of the day was to clean this up. We did this quite quickly with the Hoover Henry and the other Hoover (in French) Henry to suck up the debris. We got that done A.S.A.P, walked outside to find that it was torrential drizzling. This was not enough to dampen our spirits and it was decided that we would go to THE GREAT ORME and do some of it's crags. The first crag we went to was the Parisella's cave: an amazingly overhanging cave with grades from V4- V13( nice). We came to the decision to go for the easiest V4 there was which turned out to be a climb known only as V4 (How original). I did this after a few goes and Matt was quickly to follow in the completion but unfortunately Nathan didn't manage it. The next problem was in the nearby crag of split infinity, the problem was a low traverse known as split traverse V3 this was flashed by all as it wasn't very challenging, a climb which was a challenge was the V5 The Argument. All three of us had many a crank on the problem trying different methods but in the end I came up with the winning solution of using a small unchalked side-pull to pull me towards the finishing hold which in then popped-to to finish the climb. After this problem we went back round to Parisella's to try a V6 climb called the Pillar Start. All of us trying with tired arms to complete it but none doing so. Matt then saw an opportunity for a great lead which turned out to be F7a+. He tried to do it with style but the over hang and the bad crimps made him come off. We needed to get the quick draws down so Nathan volunteered to go up and try the climb. He fell off once but got to the top to get the rope and quickdraws down. We then went over to the tidal crag of lower Pen Trwyn which proved to be a bit of an adventure to get to as we had to go all the way along a road then back underneath it along sharp, barnacle-covered rocks to get there. The tide was slowly coming in so we had to get on with the climbing. Matt and Nathan went together and I climbed with Mr.A. Nathan went for an F6a skin deep which he got a bit scared on and fell off. Mean while I had decided to go for an F6b called Kaffe Fasset. It started on small painfully sharp holds to get up to a sloppy ledge which required a rockover to get to a slopey pocket and then to a sharp ledge. I then got very scared and came off. I had a rest, got a bit further but in the end I came down of tiredness and sheer terror of the next move. The tide had moved even further in so we had to squeeze one more climb in. I chose an easy 5+ and Matt and Nathan also both did a 5+. Both were completed by all. We packed up and were ready to go just as the tide came rushing in. I was ok because of my water sports shoes but the others successfully avoided falling in. today's climbing was great but I got the dummy for forgetting my helmet. |
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| Thursday 29 July 2004 "YES! It's a dry day! Maybe we climb today?!" Witch I no now is what we did, and I'm here now to tell the tale; we started in bus stop quarries were Nathan did fools gold E1 5c and Joel started on Solstice HVS 5a. Joel then went on to do fools gold while Nathan did Gnat Attack. After both succeeding I did the very challenging 1,000 tonnes of chicken shit (very naughty name). I did this several times because I enjoyed it so much. We moved to Serengeti where I did seamstress HVS and Joel and Nathan did seams the same. Nathan and I both then went on to do Stack of nude books meats the stick man E4 6a. Sir then went up to the top of Watch Me Wallaby Wank, Frank E4 6a which Joel and I both did but Nathan wasn't able to. We then went on a bit of an adventure down to the Monkey Bar area to see the monkey bars. Whilst there we saw some scary, dark tunnels which may of lead to a labyrinth of tunnels but we didn't explore without our head torches. We went back up to Dali's hole, picked up our bags and trekked back to the car. |
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| Friday 30 July 2004 I'm writing the diary again today me, Matt. Lovely weather but we had to wait for some special delivery which in fact never came, now I'll skip to the exciting part of the day. We were in Mr A's room with Dave and the idea was suggested that we would go to the Vivian Quarries (I was very scared when this was suggested as I wanted to do the hard 'Comes the Dervish' E3 5c). After I ate no dinner because I was sooooooo nervous we made our way to the quarry. Me and Dave run off to the start of Comes the Dervish which is about 200-250 feet above the car park. Getting there is not easy because the steps are very big! After the last step over the 80 foot drop we were there. A lady of the age of 51 had just finished possibly the oldest women ascent? And me 15 possibly the youngest? I started up the climb it was very polished an had no gear for about 6-7 meter where I came to my first RP and some hard thin moves to some good gear. The next crux I didn't find very hard with the next hard moves at the overlap. "Go on Matt" is what I heard a loud voice in the distance it was Tom, Joe and Russ offering there support! I finished up the run-out top easy slab, I had Comes the Dervish E3 5c. Whilst Joel and Nathan went to Mental Lentil which was HVS. This climb is a great milestone in my climbing career so far… back for an early night and a big bay tomorrow. |
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Saturday 31 July 2004 |
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| Sunday 1 August 2004 A rare phenomenon happened today: We had a lie-in! I think we awoke at about 9:30 to find out that we had a very relaxed day. This would include doing the shopping, a bit of bouldering and getting packed. First of all we decided to do the bouldering before we went shopping. The venue for this light session was to be Yellow wall. We arrived, walked past some scary moo-cows to come face on to our destination. We started on an easy V2 which was flashed by all. We then looked at doing a rock over climb (a one move wonder) which was graded about V6 but it was no way near as hard. It took a bit of working but it was eventually done by all. The next climb was up a small faded arête with slopers and small spiky crimps. I figured out the first few moves, Nathan then clone this to finish it first. Matt then finished it, quickly followed by me. Our new challenge was to traverse the whole wall. We all had several goes at it but it was Nathan who finally finished it by a lankifying move from an undercut to the finishing hold. We then were forced to shop at the most unholy place in the whole world; Tesco! (this was because they don't have Sainsbury's in Wales). After that outrage which shall mentally scare me for the rest of my life, we decide to go back for a rest and put the fridgable food in the Mountain Centre fridge. We then rushed back out to go Bouldering at the Pine Tree Boulders (also known as OOOOWWWWW). We went round the area doing problems including a nice dyno. Nathan managed this by using his wind to jet propel him up the wall. After a pretty hard session we ran back to the car pursued by a swarm of midges to go home and watch a very long but exciting film named Black Hawk Down. (Nathan got the Dummy today for his breaking wind). |
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| Monday 2 August 2004 Today we were moving out to the barn, and leaving the KMC behind until Friday. We got to the barn about 9:45-10:00am. We unpacked all of our stuff out of the car and into the barn with about 100-125 yard walk up a stoney hill. After unpacking all of our stuff into the barn and went to the outside shop where there was a half price sale on all climbing gear, but when we got there, there was only clothes and walking boats. After the outside shop we went to Tryfan for some climbing. We got there and the weather was quite good and was meant to get a bit wet just after lunch. Before lunch Me and Joel did Direct route Vdiff whilst Matt and Mr A did Super Direct HVS. Our climb was a really good climb which was quite hard at the last pitch. Matt said that his HVS was an excellent or even the best HVS he has done so far. After lunch we did a climb swap and when Matt started the second pitch of the Vdiff, and I got half way up the first pitch of the HVS it started to rain a little bit. So when we both got to our next pitch's Mr A decided to carry on up to the pitch Matt had just finished, where we saw Johnny Dawes. We then decided to abseil of because it was just to wet to carry on. After all of us had abseiled down except for Mr A we found out that the one and only Mr Dawes was using our ropes to abseil down. After we had all abseiled we sat down for about 20-30mins talking about Mr Dawes new climb he thought was about E8 6C and a lot of other stuff. After talking to Mr Dawes we came home to the barn for so dinner which was none other but Kedgeree, this was delicious. After dinner we had a rest and try to stick a bad sloper which we all managed to do. After that we had a cup of tea and some cake which was scrumptious Matt went a bit mad and tided up all of the kitchen and moving around the tables and tiding up the toilet rolls which I think should make him get the dummy. |
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| Tuesday 3 August 2004 Our first full day in the cottage. And it went well. We decided to go to the Clogwyn y Grochan, and I was to climb with Nathan and Joel was to climb with Mr A. Nathan wanted to climb Kaisergebirge Wall HVS and Joel wanted to try Brant Direct HVS. Joel succeeded with style. Nathan however was a little more, well, scrappy but still good (even though two pieces of his gear popped!). I took up a half rope so we could abseil. I started off until I reached a bit of gear which wasn't ours with lots of fiddling and faffing about, I cracked the puzzle and got a nut!! The rest of the climb was easy and I had the task of setting up the abseil. "it doesn't look as safe as sirs" is quoted form Nathan as he was just about to abseil but it was. After a spot of lunch, Nathan and I set off on a big adventure on Brant VS via Brant direct start the first pitch was hard but enjoyable. The second pitch however was not as good, but maybe that's because I got a size 5 nut stuck. Whilst on the second stance we saw a very big traction engine being filmed. The third pitch was not very nice at all I got sort of off line and climbed 100 foot odd with two bits of gear! The forth pitch was when our battle against the midges begun I was defiantly on the wrong route and I wanted to be at home, in bed, warm, dry, away from midges. This pitch was 150 foot and I put two bits of gear in (it was easy). This nightmare climb was only matched by the descent and the more forceful attack by the midges. After we survived the descent we went to the DMM 2nd shop where Nathan realised that the harness his heart was set on was in fact too big. The Llanberis shops awaited us to buy a size 5 nut. On the way back to the barn we saw Fred Dibnah and suddenly realised that it was him driving the traction engine. We have just had dinner and having a read of the book with rue bits! Great day and a good learning experience for all. |
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| Wednesday 4 August 2004
(Nathan's Birthday) Today was nothing but interesting and successful. We were to go to the coastal crag of Holyhead Mountain on the isle of Holy. This exposed rock is some of the oldest in the world, after some in Australia (not Aires Rock). When we arrived we were immediately surrounded by fog. We strapped up and set off for the crag, walking through clouds of mist. It was kind of spooky. Then up ahead, we were faced by a big boulder field and behind it, an 80ft rock face. We scrambled up to the starting point of our day, got geared up and warmed up on VS (Tension) and an HVS (Watch Emily play). Matt finished his with style whilst Nathan cruised up his. I seconded Nathan taking out his quite badly placed gear, doing the moves to greet a smiling face at the top. Mr A. also did his second with attitude. It was then my go to do Breaking The Barrier E1 5b a technical and challenging route. I did this quite well but not as stylish as it should have been. Sir abseiled off to get my gear whilst Matt was coming across on a two pitch E2 named Tinseltown Rebellion. He seemed to do this with his will to be a macho man and did a sparkling clean ascent. Matt and Nathan, after both completing it, came down and Matt was told to do Breaking the barrier whilst Nathan and I went along a bit so he could do King bee Crack- HVS 5a, the classic of the crag. He started up and in no time at all was at the crux of the climb. His gear looked bomber so he went for the move and did it with a bit of complaining about the wet crack. Never the less he finished it as the first proper on site of the trip. I then went to second it without a nut-key (big mistake). I took the first few bits out easily but then I was faced by a nut which needed to be pushed in not up so I had to climb down pick Matt's up and then take the nut out. I then finished off the second, came down and got packed ready to leave. We trekked back to the car and came back to the barn. |
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| Thursday 5 August 2004 Today we went to the Cromlech. Were we going there nice and early so we knew that we were going to get a parking spot and get some good climbs in. The way up was really scrambly and a lot of loose rocks. We got there and Joel nearly wet him self when he saw there and got below it. I was climbing with Mr A whilst Joel was climbing with Matt. Joel and Matt went to do Sabre Cut VS which has 3 stars. Joel had 1 pitch and Matt had the other pitch. The first pitch was done by Matt and he said that it was good fun and Joel did the second pitch which he also said was good fun. I lead Noah's Warning VS which has 3 stars as well. It was an amazing climb with two pitches which was around about 4c-5a the whole way up. The next climb that was done was really impressive by Matt and doing Left Wall E2 5c which I had to second. He made it seem like a piece of cake, and when I got up there he had to abseil as well as me because there was three pieces of gear that I couldn't get out. Matt got the first piece out and I had to get the next to pieces out. After that Matt had to second Joel on Cemetery Gates E1 5b. He said that this was quite pumpy and not that good of climb like it said it was in the guide. Joel seemed to do this climb quite easily with out much trouble except for taking the wrong crack line at the top. When Joel finished I started Cenotaph Corner E1 5c which was a excellent climb and one of the best climbs I have done so far. I used almost all nuts except for a stuck peg and a cam. I also ran out of quick draws at the top. I started abseiling of the top and as I was about to go over the edge Joel shouted up and asked me what I was doing because he was tied on for a second. This was the last climb of the day with Pete's Eats coming up next. At Pete's eats Mr A got us all a special pudding. This ended the day and a high note for everyone. |
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Friday 6 August 2004 |
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| Saturday 7 August 2004 Today's activity was to prove a very fun and exciting trip, it was to be sea-level traversing. This was to take place on Holy Island which was quite a drive away. We kitted up and set out. We hid our bags under a ledge then went round to the starting point which was a tricky traverse. We did this with ease. We moved round the cliff face doing various challenges set by Mr. A to get to a jump pool. We all managed a front somersault and a Peggy into the seemingly deep water. We kept on traversing round to get to THE hard traverse (or at least we thought it was). It took some time but after some bumps and bruises we all completed it with style in our performance wellies. After this success it was time for a challenge of coordination: the slip under the boulder challenge. We had to time it so that the current would push us under. This was great fun but quite scary-pooh. Another higher jump pool presented itself to us so we pencil jumped in to get our waterproof tops filled with water (how good are they). We had a spot of lunch then continued with the day. Then came the 'ardest traverse (very challenging) it started with a wide bridge (which Matt fell in on) and then went round to very tricky manoeuvres, through a hole, jump in and swim to the end of the tunnel. We found a few more jumps and fun stuff but we decided to go back to the big jump and do a few more BBBIIIIGGG jumps! After this we came back home washed the stuff up and relaxed for the rest of the day. |
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