22 April 2003 - Day 1 (the only day)

Another fantastic day climbing, Tom amazed everyone with a flash of Hangover III 6a. "That was cool" - a direct quote. Tom and I decided to have a go at Panther's Wall 6a because it was covered in chalk-that we did not put on, so we decided it was sensible not to pass up this opportunity. I did it with an unusual technique which involved being upside-down. Then Tom smoked it.

Then we went to the End and Callum insisted on trying Unclimbed Wall Direct 6a but he got to the crux decided to traverse left 78 miles onto Desperate Dan; 6a but the wrong 6a. It wasn't too bad though because he did do it completely statically. Me and Tom then went over to Phillipa 6a, Tom whizzed up it with ease but then I came along and fell off.

We moved over to Grant's Groove area and. Me and Tom flame grilled Grant's Groove 6a. Joel attempted a 6a/3a called Crowborough Corner Direct but failed miserably. He said his arms hurt, yeah right. Then Nathan wanted a go on Sunshine Crack 4a. When he got to the top move he waited ten minutes, had a go, which lasted a few seconds and then rested for another ten minutes. He repeated this 426,000,000 times and then finally did it. Tom told me to try The Mank 6a so I did. I got past the crux fairly easily and Tom said that the top was about 4a so what happened, I spent half an hour standing there making sure I had brought my rubber pants. When I finally belly flopped on nothing, scraping my body up the insanely, dehumanising slopers I said, "Gosh! What a jolly difficult climb that was!".

We were all minding our business on the drive back when we saw the most exciting thing that happened all day…we saw a DeDijcker lorry. "YAY!"- direct quote. Then when you thought it was all over…we saw another one. I'm sure I passed out with excitement.

Reporter - Callum
Editor - Tony

5 October 2003

Disclaimer: sorry if any accounts, grades, or number of attempts taken is wrong or if I missed anything off I'm no genius u know.
All grades taken from the real guidebook. First attempt means first attempt that day.

The day began well as our merry group (Mr A, Tom, Matt, Nathan, Will and I) trekked towards flakes area to begin another Sundays climbing. As we walked I was icy cold but super giant down jackets, Mr A's choice of shorts and the general mickey taking of Will made us feel warmer as did the amazing friction and brilliant conditions which graced Harrisons that day. Hurrah.
The first area began well with many routes being completed Nathan definitely deserves a special mention at this point as he was climbing after a night of no sleep due to attending Joel's sleepover. After a quick warm up Tom Matt and I had a few goes on the The Limpet (6b) but soon gave up cause although the friction was brilliant it is still a damn hard climb and we all wanted to save our fingers. Whilst we were failing miserably Nathan and Will were quickly dispatching Blue Peter (5c) for the first time which went second attempt for both of them. Nathan then went on to flash for that day anyway Finger Stain (5c) with ease. Tom was determined to do Coronation Crack (6a) and dispatched the first moves with great moves and style, whilst the top move was completed slightly less gracefully using beached whale techniques. Matt then had a few goes and decided to leave it for another day. Tom, Matt and I then all did Vampire's Ledge (5c) first time, which was good, as this was a new ascent for us all.
We then moved on to the Isolated Buttress where you could easily climbing in the sun topless one side and 5 meters to the left need down jackets and hats to survive. Wow the power of the sun. Nathan clearly on power drugs did Boysen's Arête (6a) very easily and on his first attempt this incidentally was his first 6a, which made it even cooler. Not wanting to get cold I stayed in the sun and with a slight struggle and desperate dyno did Wailing Eliminate (6b) second go that day. The pressure was clearly on for Matt and Tom too as it is a route we had all been trying for some time, both responded well completing it first time with great style. Except for Matt at the top who ended the route imitating the beached whale again. We ended this area with Nathan completing Wailing Wall (5c) after a few goes, and Matt repeating Woolly Bear (6b) to some idiot saying "its easy for him he has small fingers".
We then decided to go to the 'End', where we set up some new stuff, Crucifix (6a) which Tom did about third time, and some old stuff, Phillipa (6a) which Matt nearly did and Shodan (5c) that Nathan did after a few attempts. We the moved round to Unclimbed Wall area where Tom, Matt and I all failed to repeat Jingo Wobbly (6b). We then decided to race, Will and Tom had to up- and down-climb Unclimbed Wall (5b) alternately, and Matt and I had to do the same on Zig Nose/Bulging Wall (5c). Tom and Will beat us by miles due to the fact Matt was desperately needing to make toilet and I would not let him until he had completed lots of circuits. Oh the hilarity.
We then finished at the North Boulder where Tom and I both did Alligator Snap (6a/b). And it was on this route after a failed attempt I finally learned to mantleshelf. Which resulted in a skull crushing group hug for Matt with Tom and me.
So I believe that another record has been set 4 6b's (three of them new) in a day. Hurrah

Reporter - Russ