18 November 2003
At the first round of the Urban Rock Southern Indoor Bouldering League on Sunday, team members took most of the top ten places in the Junor Male category and a significant joint second in the Male Open.
Notable performances were turned in by Tony Musselbrook (first), Matt Cousins (second) and Joel Charley (third) who all scored maximum points in the main competition. Close on their heels, in a very surprising fifth place, was Nathan Kemp.
In the Male open, Tom Gore finished third but with the joint second highest points score.

Round 1 Report | Pictures | Detailed Results | SIBL Website Pictures | SIBL Website Results

1 November 2003
The next opportunity for national team hopefuls to prove their worth occurs in Sheffield on 12 December. The senior national coach, Dave Binney, has invited a range of talent from across the country. Joel's impressive performance at the BRYCS nationals in September has earned him a letter of invitation.

Although not old enough to compete at international level (Youth B category starts at 14 years old), Joel's abilities will be assessed to see if he has the potential to compete for Britain in the future. This will be the BMC's second serious look at British youth talent.

It could be the first solid step to national team membership.

1 October 2003
The new climbing wall at the sports specialist college in Herne Bay is now operational.
The Bendcrete manufactured and installed wall will soon be open to the public once a week.

Paul Farrant, who manages the wall, has invited the Dane Court climbers to use the wall. Team members will probably set some problems and routes and use the wall for endurance training later in the year.

Paul also had a surplus of holds and has kindly provided twenty large slopers and jugs (ideal for our steeper surfaces) on long-term loan.

28 September 2003
Joel Charley had climbed strongly all day in the keenly contested 10 to 12 Boys category of the junior national final yesterday. It took the toughest boulder problems and routes to separate his score from two other competitors (both British Team members). Joel's third place was decided in the very last climb; dropping nine points on Peter Whittaker's score. Joel's placing is the highest ever achieved by a Dane Court pupil.

In the 13 to 15 Boys category, Matthew Cousins competed against an impressive array of the country's most powerful and competent young climbers. During the day he regularly amazed fellow competitors and officials alike. On several occasions he out-climbed boys who were much taller and stronger. On at least one occasion he was the only climber able to match the legendary abilities of Tom Bolger (who went on to win). Matthew's eventual ninth place was a major breakthrough for him.
Of the eight higher finishing places, five were occupied by British Team members.

By the end of the day it was clear that Joel and Matthew had earned the respect of all.
There is no doubt that many strong junior climbers will be mentioning their names on the run-up to future comps.

As an added bonus, the delighted London and South East team won the team event. The margin was more than 100 points, with the North West (winners for the last three years) pushed into third place behind the Peak region.
Pictures

18 September 2003
In the nick of time Rob Dixon, the Southern Indoor Bouldering League organiser, has delivered the dates for this year's League.
The school will be represented at all six rounds. Members of both climbing teams are entitled to enter and can expect priority allocation of transport places, as usual.
Team members in the sixth form should discuss their category of entry with Mr Alderson.

Round 1, High Sports (Redhill), 16th November 2003
Round 2, The Castle (London), 14th December 2003
Round 3, Mile End (London), 11th January 2004
Round 4, Brunel Uni (Uxbridge), 1st February 2004
Round 5, The Climb (Amersham), 29th February 2004
Round 6, Westway (London), 14th March 2004

14 September 2003
From 15 September the Competition Climbing Team will be disbanded and a new two-tier structure established.
The aim is to give more time to the training of a small group while maintaining the development of other members.
Click here for details of the new teams.

• The team is likely to be split into two groups; 'Development' and 'Performance'.
  The performance team will be smaller and train for longer and more frequently.
• You will need to have competently climbed several routes at a minimum grade (probably about five quality English 6a's) to get into the performance team.
• Soon after the beginning of term you will be asked how much time you are prepared to commit to your climbing development. This will not just include climbing on walls and trips to Harrisons.You will be expected to train properly between organised activities.

14 August 2003

13 July 2003
Russ Bates, Joe Cook, Tom Gore and Chris Powell returned from their climbing adventure in North Wales last week. Inspired and partly funded by the EB Fitzpatrick Award, they planned and executed an impressive tour of some hard Welsh classic routes and, by all accounts, had an amazing trip.
The tales of stuck ropes, expeditions to the Lost World and chats with the likes of Johnny Dawes and Liam Halsey will reverberate around the corridors of Dane Court for many years to come.
The group are already planning to return to the area to continue their run of E-graded ascents.
In the shorter term; we eagerly await the production of their video presentation.
Report and Photos

5 July 2003
With Joel Charley and Matthew Cousins retaining their respective second and third places at heat 2 of the BRYCS, it's likely that we will see a Dane Court pupil at the national final in September.

Again, credit must go to all other members of the team competing in the BRYCS. They have maintained impressive results. Indeed Martin Howard (completing all the climbs this time) leapt from 11th to 6th position.

The final is due to be held on 27 September at the new Scottish National Climbing Centre in Ratho near Edinburgh.

We now have to wait until 6 September at the Westway wall for the conclusion of the regional heats.

28 June 2003
Members have made an excellent start to the junior national series taking all but three of the top places in the Boys 10-12 and 13-15 categories. They were frustrated by the exceptional talents of three junior national competition team members but Joel Charley battled to second place in the 10-12's and Matt Cousins narrowly beat Tony Musselbrook to come third in the 13-15's.
In fact, Dane Court pupils currently occupy all places from third to eighth in the older category.

Jason Pay, taking part in his first comp outside school, finished an impressive fourth in the 10-12's.

9 June 2003
The new variable angle section of the school bouldering wall is now complete.

With essential assistance from Joel Charley, Joe Cook and Callum Harris the final joints were made and the wall was quickly hoisted into position.

Joel, Joe and Callum even had time to set some problems for you to try.

4 June 2003

The management at Revolution has agreed some useful deals:

• Team members will gain entry as individuals for £2.50 (half price).
  You will need to complete their one-off registration procedure (requires £5 payment and a parent to sign forms) and you must collect your new yellow DCGS Competition Climbing Team membership card from me and take it with you.
• The school can operate organised sessions at a reduced rate allowing a charge of £2 per person. It is likely that some more team training sessions will take place at Revolution.

I am also considering a regular informal weekday evening at the the wall when I will be present (probably route and problem setting).
You can come along as individuals and climb, train, help set problems etc.
Let me know soon if you have a preferred evening.

Mr Alderson

4 June 2003
New safety mattresses were ordered today. But don't get too excited just yet. They will take at least four weeks to arrive. In the meantime the PE department are able to lend us their mattresses so we can use the new section as soon as the fire alarm call point and light switch have been moved by an electrician (7 to 10 days).

30 May 2003
Latest photos of construction.
Tilt angles are experimental; angles up to about 50° are possible.

Still to be completed:
Move fire alarm call point and light switch; Fit panels to frame.
The wall will be fully operational when suitable safety mattresses are acquired.

26 May 2003
We will soon have 17 square metres of climbing wall added to the existing school facility.

The new section will have a 300mm vertical kick-board and a 3 metre-high tilting section which will vary from a 5 to 45 degree overhang.
As with previous additions to the wall, the style and steepness of this latest phase has been driven by the continuing rapid improvement in the standard of our team.

Much of the construction will be completed over the half term and the wall should be in operation before the end of the summer term.

18 May 2003
Team members who have visited Harrisons Rocks over the past few weeks will know Geoff Pearson as the fountain of climbing knowledge and all-round advisor on routes and technique.
A flick through the Southern Sandstone guides will confirm his contribution to the climbing thereabouts (Mr Spaceman, Powder Finger etc).
Geoff has been helpful to our climbers and has been so moved by your polite and friendly response to donate a book to the school.
Face Dancing, edited by Neil Gresham and Sam Grimmer, is produced in aid of The Rachel Farmer Trust; a charity which provides care and opportunities for the young and underprivileged.
Rachel died in 1993 after slipping from a steep walkway in Boux, Southern France.
The book contains some spectacularly beautiful images and thought provoking passages that highlight Rachel's brief climbing career.
If you would like to view or borrow the book please see Mr Alderson.

14 May 2003
There has been some encouraging development of the climbing wall on the site of the Revolution Skatepark. The previously modest climbing surface area has been at least trebled and the room now looks much more inviting. Some of our senior team members have revisited the wall and are almost convinced of it's suitability as a regular venue. The management of the Centre appear willing to expand the facilities in response to customers' needs.
A one-off BRYCS team training session will take place there on Wednesday 21 May.
This will give many more team members the opportunity to to sample the new facilities.
Visit the Revolution website

10 May 2003
With so many team members racing through the grades recently, the most significant acheivement for several years has almost been overlooked. Tony Musselbrook's third 6b on Southern Sandstone (Wailing Wall Eliminate) makes him the hardest technical outdoor climber the school has ever known.
At only 13, Tony's record is quite amazing and places him among the strongest climbers in the South East.
He continues to improve and we can expect Tony to complete some more hard ascents this year.

23 April 2003
So far this holiday, we have been blessed with almost perfect climbing weather for our trips to Southern Sandstone venues. Many of our team are continuing to push up their top grade. The last two visits, alone, saw more than ten new ascents at 6a.
Tony has put pen to paper (or finger to keyboard) to report on the excitement of yesterday's trip.
Click here to read his report.

13 April 2003
Tony Musselbrook climbed Wooly Bear, 6b at Harrisons Rocks today.

After several attempts, each time reaching the awkward heel-hook, Tony organised his limbs one more time and made the moves above look relatively easy.

Tony continues to make solid progress through the grades.
His current projects include Sossblitz and Mr Spaceman, both challenging 6a's.

5 April 2003
Minor adjustments have been made to the official Dane Court Team.
Phil Maringer and Sam Syvret are replaced by Martin Howard and Jason Pay.
This brings the team up to date for preparations for this year's BRYCS competition.
The BRYCS team will consist of:
10 to 12 - Joel Charley, Martin Howard and Jason Pay
13 to 15 - Matt Cousins, Will Cousins, Callum Harris, Nathan Kemp, Tony Musselbrook and
Dan Shepperson

23 March 2003
A small but very impressed group witnessed Matt Cousins' success on the 6b version of Wooly Bear at Harrisons Rocks today. The climb deviates from the original 'straight up' line by traversing right and allowing a heel-hook on the south west corner of the buttress.
It wasn't the most elegant ascent but will certainly go down in Dane Court history as a breakthrough in climbing development.

Matt moves up on the crucial ironstone hold >

9 March 2003
Tom Gore - 11th, Matt Cousins - 17th, Joe Cook - 21st, Tony Musselbrook - 23rd, Russ Bates 26th.
There were 34 entrants in the Boys category.
Tom missed qualifying for the final by one (bonus) point.

10 February 2003
The BMC have set the following dates for the British Regional Youth Competitions Series:
Round 1 - 28 June 2003
Round 2 - 5 July 2003
Round 3 - 6 September 2003
National Final - 27 September 2003

Although not yet official, it is reasonable to assume that the age qualifying date will be 31 August 2003

9 February 2003
A few notes about this year's School League:

• As mentioned on the timetable page, there will be
  no open session on Wednesday 12 February due to the Year 9 Parents' Evening.
  The session on Tuesday 11 February will take place as usual.
• It is very likely that ALL competition problems will be removed and about twenty new ones set over the half term.
• The final has been provisionally booked for Tuesday 25 March 2003.
  The format will roughly follow the 2002 final in that it will be a knock-out competition.
• There will be two categories competing separately during the final;
  a) four highest scorers in the Open Elite
  b) four highest scorers from all other categories combined.

18 January 2003
Big congratulations to our team consisting of;
Tom Gore (captain), Russ Bates, Joe Cook, Matt Cousins and Tony Musselbrook
who took the junior team prize by a convincing margin.

Among the highlights of this excellent one-off competition were the superb problems and the opportunity to compete alongside the likes of Malcolm Smith, Gareth Parry, Ben Moon, Ben Bransby and Arlie Anderson.

The challenge from other junior teams was very good-natured and reflected the air of mutual encouragement that pervaded the whole competition.
Information | Gallery | Results | Report | CragX.com report, pictures and video clips

11 January 2003
Evolution Climbing Wall is the name of the new wall being built a short distance form Harrisons Rocks.
Bendcrete should now be on site constructing the preformed panels. Take a look at their website.

10 January 2003
I have today received an invitation to the official opening of this new climbing wall on Friday 17 January.
The wall is likely to open to the public a few days later.
I called in to see the progress on the wall and was pleased to see the heavily featured panels waiting to be erected. This could make a useful contrast to the school's flat panel wall. I renewed my invitation to the skatepark management to come and see our wall in use as they already have plans to expand their facility and could well gain some construction hints. They could well visit within the next two weeks.
Mr A

10 January 2003
Russ Bates, Joe Cook, Matt Cousins, Tom Gore and Tony Musselbrook will enter both rounds of the British Bouldering Championships in March.

5 January 2003
Mr Curtis has granted permission for pupils to enter the junior section of this year's British Bouldering Championships. Permission is necessary because those attending will miss two days of school and certain conditions will be placed on any year 11 pupils involved.
The Championships consist of two rounds;
Manchester (Broughton) on 8/9 March and Birimingham (National Exhibition Centre) on 15/16 March.

The upper age limit is 16 years so any current Team member is eligible.
If you wish to to take part you should discuss the situation with Mr Alderson in the first week of the Spring term.

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